Tuesday, December 30, 2008

"Go for it or don't"

(or, how to fix a car over the holidays in a country where Christmas is a week-long holiday)

Some of you have heard that we had an issue last week with our car (now named "Trusty" the Nissan Sunny). It's an interesting story, if a bit long, so I'll try to put it in blog form.

Well, last Friday (that's Boxing Day for Kiwis) we left Wanaka and made a stop at "the Blue Pools" to stretch our legs before going over Haast pass. We had just had a great Christmas with Chrissy and were headed to a rather remote section of New Zealand called the West Coast.

We enjoyed our hike and I got into take over driving duties when we we backed out... SCREEETCH!!!! (Huh, that didn't sound good).

We tried forward: SCCRAAAATCH!!! (Hmmm, forward doesn't work either.)

We tried for 1/2 an hour in the parking lot. Forward (Screetch), Backward (Whine), Breakes (Scratch), Gas (Yelp). Nothing was changing and we were really freaking out the other bemused tourists who were having a smoke after their hike (none of whom lent a hand, thanks, but I won't chalk that up to their being tourists). And to top it off, it was beginning to rain.

So we had a decision to make: head back to Makarora (20 km in the wrong direction, 300 people on a National Holiday) or head to Haast (60 km in the right direction, 1,000 people who are still on holiday. We took the latter.

We headed on our drive, and for 2 kms, had the worst screeching I've ever heard from a car. My God, we're going to blow this thing up! Then, as we tested it out at a campground, it faded away.

Fine, we thought, and then we proceeded to drive the 200 kms straight to Fox Glacier without stopping for fear of the noise coming back. That night, we interupted the Toy Christmas to get a diagnosis from family friend Derek Kroes, a bit of a car expert. Thus creating a rare phenomenon which was a first for us and probably for Derek as well: a 10,000 km car diagnosis.

"Hmmm, he pondered, I'd guess at CV joint or Wheel Bearing. You could probably smear it with grease to keep you going for a few days."

That sounded accurate to me, we've broken a few CV joints on both the Honda and Mazda back home and would guess Trusty wouldn't be any different. I did tell Derek that we'd have to drive another 154 kms to get to a town of at least 10,000, but I didn't share the detail of the 8 FORDS that we drove the Sunny through a week earlier. (by ford, we're referring to an open stream crossing, not an automobile from Detroit. And yes Andy, we will post pictures of that!) Again, another reason I didn't doubt we doomed a CV joint to repair.

The next morning as we saddled up, I questioned a mechanic on my choice of grease. When he heard what I was attempting he said, "I wouldn't go that way, try wrapping the CV in siran wrap to keep in clean and then have it checked out as soon as you can. Sounded good to me, but we're now treating our car like Christmas leftovers. A bit odd.

We'll we made it to Hokitika without further incident, but we still had three days before a mechanic shop opened. When it did on Monday, 29 Dec., I ran into Hokitika Auto Works to get a diagnosis. The mechanic simply looked at me and said, "Well, bad news on that mate. It'll only take two hours to look at it, but we can't fit you in until the fifth." (Like I said, Kiwi's guard their holidays very seriously). I said some choice words (at the situation, not at the friendly mechanic!) and my intention to go over Arthur's Pass to Christchurch later that day (another 182 kms). He smiled and directed me to another shop a few kms down the road who might have a bit more time for me. Thanks, I said, and we were on our way.

When we arrived at the next shop, my wife kindly reminded me to "be assertive." I did just that. Before I knew it, I was in a test drive with the mechanic trying to duplicate the noise we had (which at this point hadn't occurred for 4 days and 358 kms). I expressed my doubt.

"Well, does it make the clicking when you turn hard that a CV joint would make?" He asked me.
Duh, I thought, that tell-tale noise hadn't occurred!

"Let me drive!" the mechanic said.

After 2 more tests and some hairpin turns he declared us fit for the pass.

"You probably had some dirt or a rock in your brakepad. It probably ground itself away or fell out." Arg, we just spent 4 days worrying about this and it was probably already fixed for us. We were relieved, but I was again humbled about how something as simple as an automobile can stress us out so much. We're definitely on the paranoid side when it comes to this car! And again, it's likely that or fording with the car would've caused our screeching.

So, that's the story of our near Holiday Car disaster. I can only hope that this was somewhat amusing and if you've gotten this far in the story, you're name is either "Andy", "Gene", or "Jim". Let me know if I'm close to right!

Best quote of the week

Janwyn (eye-ing up the windy switchbacks we're about to drive over): "Honey, on the way back from Akaroa, can we take the Highway?"

Corey (driving): "Uh, honey, believe it or not, this is the Highway."


To Akaroa

Monday, December 22, 2008

From the land where Santa wears swimtrunks

Wow, it feels like quite a while since I've written down thoughts on the blog. A lot of pictures and quotes over the past few weeks.

Well to catch everyone up to date, it's the day before Christmas Eve, and we've settled in on our second WWOOF here in Wanaka. (We had Skyped with our families yesterday and plans were up in the air. Pleasantly, we found a place right here in town.) Our previous WWOOF host Graham was kind enough to put in a good word for us with Chrissy, who in turn gave us a place to stay over the holidays. We'll be here through Boxing Day (Friday).

When we arrived yesterday, we busied ourselves with weeding and then today continued with the landscaping by putting in a few raised garden beds. We added in some black soil and gravel walkway to make a very appealing presentation and hopefully can wrap up the work tomorrow. It's been fun, but physically exhausting work.

After Friday, we've discussed a bit where we want to go, but haven't settled on plans. We're evaluating a few WWOOFS further North which will help us get on our way. We'll have to see what comes up.

As for the Kiwi Christmas, it's a pretty interesting time. Any representation of Santa tends to have him on the beach sunbathing, out swimming, or other summer activities. Which is a mirror of how many people here spend the day. They'll typically stay with family and enjoy a BBQ on the beach. And why not, it's above 23 Celsius here (above 80 F)o getting outside is definitely a great plan.

But it's certainly different holiday plans than we're used to!

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Funny quote from this week...

"Yo Americans, would you like some Sashimi?"

- Some nice English bloke while we relaxed in our tent in Arrowtown.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Images from the Routeburn Track!

Just to the East of the Milford Track, the Routeburn nearly matches it in natural beauty. Some say it's even better, citing the full day hike above the treeline. The Routeburn Track is also another New Zealand Great Walk, which means it has to be booked ahead of time. Thankfully there were still openings a couple weeks ago when we decided we wanted to tramp it.

We found the tramp to be a bit more physically challenging than the Milford, but for vistas, an entirely different experience. We were rather lucky with the weather, only getting damp on a few occasions.

Take a look at a few of our pics here or view the slideshow below. We're glad we went for it and glad to be resting comfortably now that we made it through!

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Patagonia Chocolates

one more quick post. Thanks to a little direction from our friends Bettina and Daniel (thanks for the tip!), we had the best ice cream we've ever had....at Patagonia Chocolates.

Corey had banana split and cookies and cream. I had dark chocolate and macadamia + white chocolate and hazelnuts. yum!!! We went back for hot chocolate and a shake today! We'll have something to look forward to while we're on the Routeburn this week.

Doubtful Sound Cruise

At the last minute we decided to take an overnight cruise on the Doubtful Sound with Real Journey's. It involved a boat ride across Lake Manapouri, a bus ride over Wilmot Pass, and then we boarded The Navigator, which cruised the Doubtful Sound all the way to the Tasman Sea. It was a wonderful experience and we highly recommend it. We saw bottle nosed dolphins, Fiordland crested penguins, and southern fur seals.

Click here to link to the online web album, or view the slideshow below.

Milford Sound pictures

Embedded slide show below, or click this here to link to the online album.

Hanging in Queenstown

Hi all,

It's Monday here, Sunday back home, and a bit anxious to actually watch a Vikes game... there's a sportsbar about two blocks from our campground here in Queenstown, it's called the "Ministry of Sport" which appears to have a reasonable chance of playing NFL Football games. However they don't open for another hour. I've got the game on my computer and it appears that the Vikes are up 21-0 already ... awh crud, C. Taylor just fumbled. Figures.

In other news, we made it successfully from our wwoof in Gore up to Queenstown, about an 3 hour drive. Queenstown is a Breckenridge, CO type of place, skiing and adventure sports are "the things to do" here, and paragliders coming off the nearby peak were an interesting sight while coming into town!

Of course, our adventure begins tomorrow, The Routeburn Track, and we'll have to catch our bus at 7 am to get over to our hike. It's a three day tramp (the Milford was four) but features a full day of Alpine climbing which will be a great feature. The weather report looks, frankly, horrible. It's raining now and destined to be constant for the week. Lighter on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday when we're hiking, but still wet. Of course, as they say, you actually want rain, as the waterfalls will be flowing, but still three days of dampness is too much for anybody!

On the way to Queenstown we worked on our "back up" plan for Christmas, should we need to turn to that. (Queenstown, being a resort town, is quite hopping during the Holidays, being the height of Summer and all). Our first option is to stay on a wwoof in nearby Wanaka, helped along by a connection through Graham at Marama farm, our first wwoof. But as a secondary plan, we may head back over the "Gorge Pass" to Alexandra and Cromwell where the picking of Cherries is in full swing. This would be paid work and might help us in evaluating some of our activities in the next couple of months.

Well, that's plenty of news for now. I'm going to go brave the downpour to see if I can go have some "Speights in a Handle" and enjoy some American Football!

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Our next adventure...the Routeburn Track

It's time to leave the farm. Corey is baking chocolate muffins downstairs and my mouth is watering from the heavenly smell! We are stocking up on homemade muffins and banana bread for our next tramp...the Routeburn Track. Tomorrow we'll make our way to Queenstown, where we'll stay for 2 nights before embarking on a 3 hour bus ride to the start of the track.

Unlike the Milford Track, which can only be walked in 1 direction during the peak season, you can start the Routeburn at Queenstown and walk to The Divide (which is what most people do), or as we are planning....bus to The Divide and hike back to Queenstown, where we're leaving our car.

Click here for the day-to-day description of the track.

Hope all is going well for those back home. I hear the folks in Minnesota have an inch of snow on the ground and Portland might see some white already this early in the winter!

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Marama Farm

Hi all,
Marama Farm has been hosting us well. So far this week we've:
  • Been learning about soil chemistry
  • Met some of the Southern Otago farmers in the area over a delicious bbq of local meats
  • Understanding some of the affects of organic farming vs. traditional farming
  • Eating lots of lamb sausages (bbq-ed, boiled, fried)
  • Spring cleaning in the main house
  • Done a couple loads of laundry
  • Got Marama Organics setup with a Salesforce account (yes, sort of doing a little work!)
  • Got up at 6:00 AM this morning to observe Graham and Rose (the herding dog) shift sheep (aka move to a new paddock)
  • Watched a movie about Joel Salatin's Polyface Farm. Interestingly enough, I had read up on this subject in my book, The Omnivore's Dilemma.
  • Think I might subscribe to Acre's USA magazine when I get home
  • Packed frozen lamb sausages in 1 kg packages this afternoon at Churchy's butchery
  • Took Corey's picture next to what we think is the largest Brown Trout (another one of his "The World's Largest.... photos"\
  • Build a compost bin!
  • Made banana loaves -- yum!
  • Took down some fencing
  • Chopped firewood (ick -- blisters)
  • Enjoyed the fine company of Graham, Mitch, Walter, and Lolita!

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Wwoofing in Gore...

Hey all,

It's Monday here and I wanted to shoot a quick note that we've started our first Wwoofing experience in Gore, South Otago Region. WWOOF is the acronym for Willing Workers On Organic Farms and we're on a 3000 acre sheep and cattle farm named Marama Organics (www.maramaorganics.co.nz) with Graham Clarke. We arrived on Saturday and were surprised to find Graham out in Dunedin watching his son play in a cricket match for the day. Luckily, farm-hand Walter, a nice guy who started as a Wwoofer from Austria, showed us around and got us settled.

So far, we're diving into work here, a combination of our feeling the need to do work and the fact that there's plenty to do here! I've put my quasi-carpentry skills to work and Janwyn was pleased to find a vacuum and has thus far very much enjoyed the opportunity to make things sparkle and shine (surprise, right!). We'll turn our attention to the vegitable garden, Graham's admitted non-interest leaves lot's to do there. However, the region's getting some much needed rain, so we're focussing today on things to do in the dry indoors. Graham's also asked us to provide some much-needed Marketing and Business knowledge, which we're beginning to dole out, including an intriguing Japanese "Adopt a sheep" program. Definately an interesting consideration!

We'll be here for the balance of the week and it's very nice to both be relaxed regarding our travel and dig into some genuine work for a change of pace.

Friday, December 5, 2008

Google map -- see below

Hi there, just wanted to let everyone know that I updated our map to show where we've been over the last month. Click here or scroll down and click on the map at the bottom of the page.

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Another great quote from the trip thus far...

From our friend Eric, while on the Milford Track...

"When it comes to the time that you pass on from this world, you're not going to think back and say, 'Gee, I wish I got in four more months of work'."

Some general pics from Fiordland.

Here are some more recent pictures from Fiordland (and one from Southland) in general...

This Janwyn after day 1 of our "Catlin Top Track" experience. We were pretty excited to see our accommodations for the evening. To her right is a former bus from the Dunedin Transportation Authority, hauled up there and converted to a camper. It came complete with mosquito nets which were much used and appreciated!

This is the view on a clear day from McKinnon Pass towards Milford Sound while on the Milford Track. I'm attempting to upload a panoramic video I shot from this point as well. I hope it works!

Jim Brant, this one's for you! This campervan rental company, Escape, rents well painted vans in all sorts of designs. We've seen the Far Side cartoon van, a Pulp Fiction movie van, miscellaneous wildlife vans ... and this of course is the Korn van. On the right side is the design "Freak on a Leash". Classy.

Here's a picture of Janwyn from yesterday on our overnight Doubtful Sound cruise. We had the opportunity to kayak for about an hour, which we jumped at, and the chance to actually jump in 10-degree Celsius water. Well, Corey was the only one to jump at that one and injured my shoulder in the process. Hopefully it will be back in shape by the time we hike the Routeburn.

A bit about the "Fiordlands". There are 14 in Southwest South Island, New Zealand, and first explored by the English and Spanish and then settled by English and Scots. Those from the United Kingdom named them "Sounds" as being more familiar with that geological feature in their native lands. The difference between a sound and a true fjord is simple: "Sounds" are carved by rivers, are shallower, and feature a "V" shaped bottom. "Fjords" are carved by progressing Glaciers, are deep, and feature a "U" shaped bottom. Fjords are found in only two places in the world, Norway and New Zealand.

Unfortunately, those in New Zealand seem to be destined to stay in name Sounds, despite their true creation. Interestingly the bays of nearby Lake Te Anau (which I can see from where I'm sitting) are named "North Fiord", "West Fiord", and "South Fiord" despite the fact that they aren't fjords either ... they're not connected to the ocean. Still, when naming the National Park, and now World Heritage Area, the government of New Zealand settled on "Fiordland" using a correct nomenclature, yet still getting the name misspelled! Man, how many times could they get that wrong?

The Maori have yet another legend about how the Fjords were formed, but I've rattled on long enough and will keep that for another time!


And finally, here I am at McKinnon pass. The sign next to me says "Danger, steep cliffs, stay at a safe distance". And they weren't kidding. It's 300 meters (1000 feet) straight down. They call it a 12 second drop. Whoa. In the states, this would've been "Lawyered Up" with a fence, ruining the view for everybody. Glad we were able to enjoy it without that distraction.

We hiked up the next day to the pass with our packs, but the weather had changed, it was rainy and windy, and the clouds obscured the view. I'm glad I took the chance the day before to get to the top!

That's all for now ... Talk to everyone soon!

A video from McKinnon Pass!



Did this load? I hope so! This is the best view from the Milford Track!

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

We survived the Milford Track

Hiking the Milford Track is a very regulated activity. Only 40 people are allowed to start the track each day, it’s only hiked in one direction (during the peak season), and water transport must be arranged to get to and from the track. All part of the allure of hiking “the finest walk in the world”.


While we were preparing for the Milford Track, we repeatedly ran into people asking us the question, “Do you have good wet weather gear?”.


We definitely found out why by day three!


Now, to set the record straight, you actually want it to rain while you’re out tramping, it makes the waterfalls and scenery more dramatic. However it doesn’t help out much with the hiking.


Corey’s favorite part of the tramp was summiting McKinnon Pass after a long hike on Day 2. The walk on Day 2 ends at Mintaro Hut, just before the pass … but providing it’s fair weather and you have the energy, it’s suggested one might hike the next two hours to the pass as you’re not guaranteed a view in worse weather. From there we spent an hour looking back towards Lake Te Anau, forward to Milford Sound, and straight down 300 meters to the hut we’d be spending the next night in.


Janwyn’s favorite part of the tramp was the descent on Day 3. After reaching McKinnon Pass, we descended among many cascading waterfalls and had to cross streams as we continued to try and keep dry. With the rain pouring down it was absolutely beautiful. After a lengthy descent, the sight of Quentin Hut and the side trip to Sutherland Falls was a welcoming break. We enjoyed a hot cup of tea before trekking on to see New Zealand’s highest waterfall, and then onto Dumpling Hut for our last night of the tramp.


Due to the remote nature of the Fiordland National Park, it has the luxury of protecting some of the most rare animals to be found in New Zealand. Among those that we came across were the Kaka, who soared over us on both the first and fourth days, the flightless Weka, who curiously eyed us up on our way to Sutherland Falls, and the Kea (also known as the South Island Parrot) who attempted to steal Janwyn’s camera out of her hands at Dumpling Hut. We felt very lucky to have the close contact with such rare birds as we did.


Even though we came out of “the bush” soaked, sore, and more than a little tired, we’re gearing up for our next tramp. After our first WWOOF experience, which we’ll begin the end of this week, we’re signed up hike the Routeburn track, a three day, two night Alpine track before we head into Queenstown.


Cheers! Corey and Janwyn